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 Post Posted: Sat May 27, 2017 4:59 pm 
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Joined: Tue Dec 10, 2013 12:17 pm
Posts: 123
Hello,
M13 with 1000 subs of 500 milliseconds, gain 250/600, sensor temp = 5°C
Image is cropped then reduced (too large)
The technique noticeably diminishes the blurring effect from turbulence at the price of very long stacking (16 hours with DeepSkyStacker...). Recording a SER movie then stacking with AutoStakkert should be better. AviStack failed to properly align the subs.
I'm not very proud of the colors but this is due to my hard processing to wipe out light pollution.
Definitely no DSLR is able to take 1000 raw subs.
Total exposure = 8mn 20s !
Nicolas
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m13(zwoforum).jpg
m13(zwoforum).jpg [ 1.57 MiB | Viewed 600 times ]


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 Post Posted: Fri Jun 02, 2017 1:22 pm 
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I need to make own photos like that

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 Post Posted: Thu Jun 08, 2017 8:25 pm 
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Joined: Sun Apr 02, 2017 6:46 pm
Posts: 25
I found your technique very interesting and decided to try it myself, not knowing how the ASI 224 would handle the acquisition. I am using a Meade LX200GPS 10 inch with a 0.5 Anteres focal reducer and a ZWO IR cut filter. Capture was with Sharp Cap with the following settings. Two items of interest. 1st, I settled on settings where I could just barely make out M-13 on my laptop, and 2. I love the method because it avoided the usual star bloat with longer exposures.

Settings: Sharp Cap AVI
1304 by 976
RGB 24
Gain 357
Exposure 0.884
Brightness 108
Frames Captured 702, Autostakkert for stacking, using about 350 frames (51%)
Photo Shop Levels and Curves

Stacking was a bit tricky, I finally settled on setting the alignment boxes just around the core of M-13.

Thanks for the idea.


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 Post Posted: Sat Jun 10, 2017 8:28 am 
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Posts: 123
The technique was developped by several persons, including A. de Bonnevie, E. Kraaikamp and others while Sam Wen encouraged us to try planetary techniques on deep-sky objects with the early prototype of ASI224.
The 224 is the best for that, thanks to its extremely low readout noise.

One-second exposure seems to be the limit to get rid of a great part of turbulence.
Once the exposure has been set, adjust the gain. Try to pick up a moderate gain even if the histogram is only 30% full. Tests performed with 100, 250 and 500ms gave no better results because the gain became excessive to compensate for the lack of contrast, and increasing gain does not increase the incoming light while turbulence did not noticeably diminish.

It's better to get more images with less gain, at the price of loooong stacking.

You will get perfect pictures by taking dark frames (with SharCap or FireCapture you can take some tens of dark frames then the software subtracts them while acquiring the frames).

Nicolas


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 Post Posted: Tue Jun 13, 2017 8:32 am 
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Joined: Mon Apr 24, 2017 10:08 am
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Very nice work! I love it.

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 Post Posted: Fri Aug 25, 2017 3:13 pm 
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Yes i love it too. It is great!

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